PLACE IN FOCUS: MERON
by Elliott Goldstein, Partnership 2000, UK

Established in 1949 by the Moshav Association of Hapoel Hamizrahi, there are approximately 105 families totalling 500 people, some of whom work in the field of education in the Bnei Akiva Ulpan and Yeshiva. There are also those who earn a living from agriculture and tourism; some have professional trades or are employed in the public sector. Within the settlement is the grave of Rabbi Shimon Bar-Yochai, which is visited by many people especially on "Lag Ba'omer". The court where the tombs are located was built by Rabbi Abraham ben Mordechai Galante in the second half of the 16th century and take the form of multi-domed buildings with a number of wings, a yard and steps up to the roof. It is an agricultural co-operative and is located on the Akko - Tzfat road.

Walk further up the mountain, up some steps a few hundred metres further off, and you'll come to one of the oldest Galilee synagogues, built in the 3rd century CE. Its east wall is carved out of the sheer rock scarp.

Many Jewish sages are buried in Meron. Among them is one of the most revered of all - Rabbi Hillel, of the 1st century CE, whose liberal teachings are the inspiration behind many of the rabbinical decisions in our time. His cave-tomb is reached by a path leading down to the valley from the left of the Yeshiva. Hillel the Elder is said to be buried with his wife and over 30 students. Hillel, known for his humility and patience was head of the Sanhedrin (Jewish high court), which he and his students dominated for over 350 years.

Rabbi Shammai, a contemporary of Hillel, is believed to be buried close by, in the massive double sarcophagus set on the hill facing Hillel's tomb at Khirbet Shema. In contrast to Hillel, Shammai was known for his inflexibility and impatience and their different approaches are illustrated in a story from the Talmud: 'A gentile once came to Shammai asking 'Teach me all of the Torah while standing on one foot'. Shammai took a ruler and drove his away as a scoffer. The gentile then approached Hillel who replied, 'Do unto others as you would have others do unto you. That is the whole Torah; the rest is commentary. Go and learn!'

At the top of this hill lies the excavated synagogue of Khirbet Shema, in use throughout the 3rd-5th centuries CE. An unusual feature is the fixed shrine for Torah Scrolls most of the synagogues of this period, such as that at Capernaum, had mobile Arks. Little remains apart from the outside walls, a couple of original doorways and an archway, which according to Jewish mystical belief will collapse and herald the coming of the Messiah.

Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai Tomb

Thousands of worshippers come to the grave site of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yohai, each especially on Lag Ba'omer, the anniversary of the death of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai, the 33rd day after the counting of the Omer, from the eve of Passover, tens of thousands of young and old trek up the slopes of 1,200-m.-high Mt. Meron to the Tombs of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai and his son, Eleazar. The Kabbalists hold that Rabbi Bar Yochai vowed to the Almighty that the Torah would never be forgotten. It is in fulfilment of this vow that the ancient Scrolls of the Law are taken in joyous procession from Zefat's old synagogues to the rabbi's tomb.

Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai was known for his devotion to the land of Israel. After the Bar Kochba revolt was crushed, some rabbis advised recognition of Rome as the sovereign power in Israel. Bar Yochai refused to accept their legitimacy, and the Romans issued a death warrant for him. Bar Yochai hid with his son in a cave for 13 years rather than leave the land of Israel.

During the period of deprivation and oppression following the revolt, the rabbis began to discuss conditions under which Jews should be permitted to leave the holy land. Some rabbis determined that general poverty and high inflation were sufficient grounds to leave. Bar Yochai ruled that regardless of the price, as long as bread was available Jews were forbidden to leave.

Ancient Meron And Mt. Meron

Mount Miron is a place of pilgrimage for thousands of believers. Many holy men are buried here. Additionally, Mount Miron has beautiful desert view, wild animals, campgrounds, etc.

Near Moshav Meron there are remains of the Second Temple period Jewish town Meron, and its synagogue.

As mentioned above, Meron is best known as the burial place of the 2nd-century Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai. Bar Yochai is traditionally identified as the author of the "Zohar" (the book of splendour), the major book in Jewish mysticism. As visitors walk in and past the prayer rooms and library they can see the gravestone of Rabbi Shimon. People come here to pray, to light candles and to place notes asking for intercession. At the side, behind a lattice, is the grave itself.

The natural reserve of Mount Meron, with its two wooded peaks, is the highest reserve in western Israel. Dense and well-developed groves extend as far as the eye can see. There are kermes oak, terebinth, Cyprus oak and Arbutus are the predominant trees in the reserve. There are also caves and sink-holes, the habitat for rare plants and interesting small wildlife such as salamanders, dormice and martens.

At Lag Ba'Omer…

Makeshift stands line the roads up to the tombs. Some sell Middle Eastern pastries, others copies of the Zohar, the book of Kabbalah that was allegedly authored by Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai

Many stands offer several segulot (charms) that are supposed to act as spiritual aids. Although not a central part of traditional Judaism, the concept of amulets, and other spiritual "first-aid" does exist. However, most rabbinic authorities maintain that there are no shortcuts to a spiritual life. Hard work both in interpersonal relationships and those between man and God are necessary.

Others maintain about segulot: "It can't hurt!" The packets contain various fragrant herbs used in religious practice. The red strings and blue glass eyes are supposed to ward against the "Evil Eye" -- a negative spiritual force, often created by jealousy. The small Sefer Tehillim (psalms) is for reading because there is believed to be a protective benefit in holy books.

Even before the "real crowds" arrive, Meron is bustling. Inside the tombs, the men's and women's sections are filled with people praying. They are NOT -- as could be misconstrued -- praying TO the sages (as Catholics may pray to a saint), but rather to God, in the hopes that the zechut (merit) of the tzaddik (righteous person) will aid in the reception of their prayers.

This photo was taken early in the day, BEFORE the crowds arrived. Four times this number of people pack themselves into the tiny room which is the closest accessible point to the actual burial site.

Meron quickly assumes a festive atmosphere quite unlike any other. In the woods around the town, campsites are filled with mainly Sephardic Jews. Some tents have televisions, electricity and running water. The fragrance of roasting shish-kebab wafts upwards toward the tombs. Some have the custom to make a seudat hodayah (thanksgiving meal) and to slaughter a lamb and roast it. Further up the road, there is a makeshift butcher station that provides kosher slaughter in accordance with Biblical commandments.

The crowds are mixed. Hassidim and Sephardim (both of which are more involved with the study of mystical texts than the general population) make up the bulk of the visitors, but there are Jews of all other types and even curious tourists. For some, this is a deeply spiritual event, where the symbolism of the bonfires will be seen against the deeper context of Judaism's mystical traditions, which they have been studying. Some come to experience the unity of thousands of Jews dancing, singing and praying together. And for others, Lag Ba'Omer is just a fun place to hang out and drink in the energy.

Hours before sunset, people line up along the edge of roof to get a good view of the lighting of the pyre. These boys are Boyaner Hassidim, one of the Hassidic groups in good attendance in Meron on Lag B'Omer. Some people save their leftover olive oil from Chanukah to burn the pyre at Meron. The bags on this pyre are full of clothing which will be burned.

It is now nightfall and the pyre has been lit. The music is loud and the crowd sings along. These people are looking at their Rebbe, the Rebbe of Boyan, who watches the flames from the rooftop above them. It is almost impossible to move except as one body. The floodlights and loudspeakers run through the night and the people dance until dawn. Many return to their hometowns the next day. Others remain in Meron, resting from their exertions and breathing the clean mountain air. Within a few days after the event, the crowds are gone, the stands have been taken down, and even most of the refuse left behind has been cleaned up. Just a lingering smell of smoke remains as a witness that another Lag B'Omer has gone by.

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